Head to Head with a God

When I first went to Bali (1971) a joined a group that was led into the jungle, stood on a platform, and for the next two hours watched a frenzy that built into men walking on coals. I was reminded of that last night when Tan, the man who does my laundry, invited me to his temple. He had told me several times about what would happen, but the whole concept was so unfamiliar I wasn't prepared and even now can't put all the pieces together.

As we drove to the temple he talked about people who die before their time (mostly, if not exclusively, suicides) and wander as ghosts. The offering of food and money are meant to sustain them as they wander. That was the end of the tale and did not seem to directly have to do with events at the temple. (I believe that it was his understanding of the Hungry Ghosts)

When we got to the temple Tan pointed out that the pillars were beer and glass wine bottles. In the first room there was an image of a Taiwenese god - apparently dead for over 100 years. So far nothing very strange.

In the next room there as a bare-chested man in deep conversation with a woman. I was told that he was a medium who was channelling a god - a god who speaks Mandarin. I was urged to take pictures, had a bit of food, and sat with Rattu (who I had invited along) and took in the scene. There were about 70 people sitting around and in casual conversations. The medium was quite ruddy and his consultations involved a far amount of theatrics - yelps and banging a large knife on the table. Close to him was an assistant, who mixed herbs to cure various complaints.

Soon I was face to face with the medium. He offered to cut his tongue and asked me how much blood I wanted him to spill on my hand. I said "sedikit" (very little) - his words were translated as "very little, go on home." He offered to spill at least a 100 drops. He cut his tongue and my hands were covered with blood. I kept my eyes closed as much as possible - having little taste for the sight of blood. I shared a bit of whiskey - I had one swallow - I forgot to check the brand, but it wasn't rot gut. The ruddy complextion - blood.

I was urged to ask a question - so I decided on the US election - Obama should be happy, but I am not sure that the word of a medium is too reassuring. BTW - his day job - a car salesman! I didn't see any evidence of money changing hands - so being possessed doesn't seem to bring wealth.

Earlier as I walked around the temple Tan showed me pictures of other people he had taken to the temple - clearly people who had an easier time getting with the program than I did.